New Rig

[SwampFox]

Alright guys- it's time to let the troll out of the box. I ordered my last comp from Dell (which finally crashed and burned after about 7 years of faithful service) In my gaming history I've played Runescape (mmorpg crack), Diablo II, the MechWarrior series, the original PlanetSide, and then I jumped from that into Warcraft III and WoW... I joined the US army and shifted into the newer console based games shortly there-after.

Friends have urged me to come back to WoW, or Diablo III, but there's only one game that really meets my desire for player based content and metagame. (Hoping that this is still intact since the game is meant to appeal to more mainstream players)

To that end I've assembled a rig, primarily utilizing NewEgg.com. I'm retired from the Army, and work for a Microsoft Partner now in South Carolina so picking up an operating system is not an issue :lol:. Without further ado:

Amazon
Thermaltake Armor Revo- Snow Edition- 187

New Egg
CORSAIR Dominator Platinum 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model CMD8GX3M2A1866C9 - 85
Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I73770K - 339
EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - 400
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard- 239
Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) with Transfer Kit- 129
CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler- 65
Logitech S-220 17 Watts 2.1 Multimedia Speaker System – OEM – 25
Logitech G930 USB Connector Circumaural Wireless Gaming Headset- 125
Razer DeathAdder – 42
RAZER RZ02-00420100-R3U1 Scarab Expert Hard Gaming Mouse Mat - 40
HP 2311x Black 23" 5ms Full HD LED BackLight LCD Monitor Slim Design 250 cd/m2 DC 3,000,000:1 (1,000:1)- 220

Razer
Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth Edition- 140


Now there are some pieces that I already have. I've got 2 old harddrives for storage, and a 500w power supply.

Total Rig comes out to a little over 2k, but that's not so bad for a top to bottom build, and I've planned the purchases out over the next 4 months (completion deadline in Dec). I don't want to really expand my budget anymore, so additions of more than 20-40 bucks will require cuts. But I want to get a stellar gaming experience out of this new forgelite engine, so I'd be very interested to see if anything jumps out at anybody as a particularly good or bad idea.


Anyways, thanks for checking out my ramble :rofl:

[Bags]

You'd probably want to get a cheaper CPU (3570k for $215 "Additional $15 off w/ promo code BTS504, ends 8/2 ") (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504) and a more expensive GPU (gtx 680 for $490 "$35 off with promo code HARDOCPX725B, ends 7/31 ") (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125422).

Assuming you want to keep around the same budget, of course. MOST LIKELY going to result in higher PS2 performance for cheaper, assuming you buy them while there promo codes are good. Even if you wait until the promo codes are done, it's still a better route.

[Goku]

Yup Bags is right. Take the hundred from the 3770K going to the 3570K and use it towards a GTX 680.

Spending too much money on the ram also. I wouldn't put more then $50 into that. You won't see any benefits going for such high speed ram anyway.

Any particular reason for that HP monitor? Seems overpriced to be honest. Either go for a cheaper TN panel or go for an IPS for the far better color accuracy in that price range.

[SwampFox]

Interesting. I'll make the switch for the higher GPU per your recommendations. I went with the HP because a friend of mine uses one and loves it. I'm definitely open to suggestions there too. Does everything else look solid?

[Bags]

I'd say you're probably overpaying on the motherboard.

I recommend : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157296 for $110 + shipping.

You got your ram slots, socket 1155, 1x PCIE 3.0 x 16, plenty of SATA and USB ports.

[Goku]

For a monitor. If you want IPS this one (http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-U2312HM-IPS-Monitor/dp/B005LN1JEC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343359576&sr=8-1&keywords=U2312HM) is a good pick, or this for a TN monitor (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052). Do you know about IPS at all?

Seeing as how hes not on a limited budget. I wouldn't go and get a budget board like that Bags. Spending extra on a mobo never hurts at least. If he wanted to get cheaper I would probably look into the MSI Z77A-GD55/GD65, Gigabyte Z77-UD3/UD5, or the ASUS P8Z77-V LE.

[vampyro]

I'd say you're probably overpaying on the motherboard.

I recommend : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157296 for $110 + shipping.

You got your ram slots, socket 1155, 1x PCIE 3.0 x 16, plenty of SATA and USB ports.

You cant SLI that shitty mobo.

[Bags]

You cant SLI that shitty mobo.

Then it's a good thing he doesn't want to SLI then isn't it? :rolleyes:

[Vancha]

I would suggest almost any other mechanical keyboard over the Razer.

Also, any reason in particular you went for such a high-end case? Unless you're planning some truly disgusting overclocks you'd probably be fine with something around $80-$110

You cant SLI that shitty mobo.
Nice attitude. The Pro4 is far from shitty...The Pro4 and shitty don't even exist in the same dimensions.

[SwampFox]

Wow- thanks for the responses guys!

Looking at the IPS, I have to agree that the screen quality looks much better. I'm thinking about bumping up to a 25 inch screen, is Dell the only company that manufactures IPS?

Motherboard is probably going to stay the same.

Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K will replace the i7

GPU will get boosted to a 680.

The case is the case :D. I wanted to splurge a little and I did, I think it's got a unique look, some great functionality, and I really liked it.

Now for the keyboard- I've never actually used a mechanical keyboard. I understand that it has more of a typewriter feel to it, not sure if that's going to be a pro or con. I know I want something backlit (preferably blue), with a raised back end (I hate flat keyboards). Any suggestions?

Also- what ram do you suggest?

[Vancha]

Now for the keyboard- I've never actually used a mechanical keyboard. I understand that it has more of a typewriter feel to it, not sure if that's going to be a pro or con. I know I want something backlit (preferably blue), with a raised back end (I hate flat keyboards). Any suggestions?
Read this. (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/mechanical-keyboard-guide)

The only other mechanical keyboard Newegg has with blue backlighting is the Gigabyte Osmium, but I don't know how good that is (also it has cherry reds, rather than cherry browns). I'd suggest looking at the Ducky Shine (I can't recall the US keyboard sites, but I know tigerimports has them with cherry blues/browns/reds/blacks), or a Deck Legend Ice keyboard if you're okay with it's styling (cherry clears or blacks). They both have blue backlighting and feet to raise them up at the back.

Ducky Shines (http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=117)

Deck Keyboards (http://www.deckkeyboards.com/)

[Rbstr]

With the money you're throwing down on silly things like that motherboard, You should certainly get a better speaker system than that crap $25 2.1 set.
Look at a decent 2.0 set like http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Premium-Powered-Desktop-Speakers/dp/B000VKEFN2
or
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studiophile-Powered-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B0051WAM64/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1343399981&sr=1-1&keywords=AV40

I see no reason to spend over $100 extra on a motherboard chock full features you aren't using.
Get the Asus P8Z77-V LE if you feel the ASRock is slumming it for some reason.

For ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226184
You shouldn't be spending more than $50 for 8gb and don't need anything faster than DDR3 1600

[FrankTheTank]

I am looking for some insite on my rig as well. I did not feel like it was necessary to start a new thread on just about the same thing. I build a rig about 2 years back and am wondering how it will run ps2 and what would possibly need upgrading. I know the gpu will need to be.

2x EVGA 01G-P3-N988-TR GeForce 9800 GT HDMI 1GB 256-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80

AZZA Solano 1000 Black/Black Japanese SECC Steel/Metal mesh in front ATX

ASUS P6X58D Premium LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80601930

16GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Desktop Memory

These are my current specs. From what i have read on the cpu is that it can be overclocked close to 4ghz if properly cooled

[Bags]

@ frank you should probably make a new thread

[Eyeklops]

The build looks solid, just a few notes.

If the rig is strictly for gaming, and mostly FPS:


First, I agree with everyone else, CPU is overkill. Get a 3570K and spend the extra money on a better monitor/GPU
Forget about IPS monitors and look into a 120Hz, ignore the disbelievers, you will notice a difference. BenQ XL2420T ($391) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014270) is a good start.
If your interested in SLI in the future, check out this ASUS P8Z77-V LX ($139) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131824). Basic, bare-bones SLI-capable motherboard that will allow you to put $100 toward a better monitor or GPU.
Do not worry about spending the extra money moving from a 670 to a 680. The performance difference is nil. The two big questions to look at are: If you want future proof, go for a 4GB 670. If you want max cheapest FPS, go for SLI 2GB 670's.
I have a Tt case and love it. However, Fractal Design (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007583%2050014581&IsNodeId=1&name=Fractal%20Design) is an up and coming brand that is building serious quality cases for an excellent price. The Define R4 ($109) (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352022) is a medium sized case that is getting great reviews.
Don't be shy about substituting G.skill memory for Corsair. I have had both and the gaming/enthusiast grade G.skill appear to be about the same quality, but cheaper priced. I will say, however, that the price difference here is small (~$20) so if you feel more comfortable with Corsair it's not a big budget dent.
I didn't do any research on the particular SSD you picked out but be warned!! There have been TONS of problems with some SandForce SSD controller chips as of late. Be sure you google the shit out of any SSD your planning on getting to be aware of any chipset bugs.

[Goku]

Keep in mind for 120Hz montors you need HIGH mins not just averages to actually notice this. With that in mind you either need multi GPU to keep the frames up or a good single gpu with lower settings. I don't want to do either, which is why I settled on IPS.

[NumbaOneStunna]

I would rather have a 60hz IPS monitor over a 120hz TN monitor.

With that being said you can get 27" 2560x1440 IPS 120hz monitors for $320.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393 the thread is 172 pages long, but its worth skimming through it.

[Eyeklops]

Keep in mind for 120Hz montors you need HIGH mins not just averages to actually notice this. With that in mind you either need multi GPU to keep the frames up or a good single gpu with lower settings. I don't want to do either, which is why I settled on IPS.
Sort of true. To get the maximum effect you need the video card to output the full 120FPS, but even at 85Hz you will notice an improvement. The desktop can easily run at 120hz so when not gaming, the general use of the PC will seem smoother.

I would rather have a 60hz IPS monitor over a 120hz TN monitor.

With that being said you can get 27" 2560x1440 IPS 120hz monitors for $320.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393 the thread is 172 pages long, but its worth skimming through it.

Be wary of this. I have read allot about the Catleaps and actually getting to 120Hz is rare. You are also getting A- panels made for the Korean game shops which are lower quality than the consumer panels sold in the EU & US markets. Although most Catleaps with 2B PCB's are able to hit 100Hz reliably, but the solution is far from plug'n'play like a standard TN 120hz. IF you really are interested in the Catleaps I suggest you read THIS (http://www2.120hz.net/showthread.php?58-120hz-IPS-vs-120hz-TN) first.

[NumbaOneStunna]

Sort of true. To get the maximum effect you need the video card to output the full 120FPS, but even at 85Hz you will notice an improvement. The desktop can easily run at 120hz so when not gaming, the general use of the PC will seem smoother.



Be wary of this. I have read allot about the Catleaps and actually getting to 120Hz is rare. You are also getting A- panels made for the Korean game shops which are lower quality than the consumer panels sold in the EU & US markets. Although most Catleaps with 2B PCB's are able to hit 100Hz reliably, but the solution is far from plug'n'play like a standard TN 120hz. IF you really are interested in the Catleaps I suggest you read THIS (http://www2.120hz.net/showthread.php?58-120hz-IPS-vs-120hz-TN) first.

There are specific models of the Catleaps that do 120hz, just because it says Catleap doesn't mean it will do 120hz. Need to read the hardforum thread to find out which ones.

I dont care about 120hz though, that's a gimmick. I only care for the resolution, screensize and IPS panel.

[Eyeklops]

I dont care about 120hz though, that's a gimmick.

Have you played a first person shooter on a 120hz monitor actually running near 120FPS? It's no gimmick, if you can't see the difference, that's not good (for you).

[NumbaOneStunna]

Have you played a first person shooter on a 120hz monitor actually running near 120FPS? It's no gimmick, if you can't see the difference, that's not good (for you).

Ive used 75, 85 and 120hz CRT monitors.

Its a gimmick.

The same fad/craze happened with CRT monitors back in the day.

[Eyeklops]

Ive used 75, 85 and 120hz CRT monitors.

Its a gimmick.

The same fad/craze happened with CRT monitors back in the day.

I guess I can agree with some aspects of 120hz being a "gimmick". Mainly the "3D" part. On the other hand, if 120hz in and of itself was a gimmick, why does just about every competitive gamer use 120hz and swear by them.

[NumbaOneStunna]

I guess I can agree with some aspects of 120hz being a "gimmick". Mainly the "3D" part. On the other hand, if 120hz in and of itself was a gimmick, why does just about every competitive gamer use 120hz and swear by them.

Well, alot of "competitive" gamers swear by these too: http://www.gunnars.com/ :rofl:

Thats not really a valid argument point.

120hz IS beneficial for 3D, so that you can get both sides at 60hz each though.

[SwampFox]

I guess my big question here is: How do I push 120 mhz without sacrificing graphics quality? Would I have to start off with 670's SLI'd? I'm sorry guys, the whole monitor debate has just gone a little over my head...

[NumbaOneStunna]

I guess my big question here is: How do I push 120 mhz without sacrificing graphics quality? Would I have to start off with 670's SLI'd? I'm sorry guys, the whole monitor debate has just gone a little over my head...

Well you would need cards capable of 120 FPS minimum on the details setting you desire.

I would NOT sacrifice image quality just to run at 120 FPS, it defeats the purpose. So, basically you would need video cards capable of running at high/ultra high settings at over 120 FPS minimum. Which is no easy task.

I dont even think SLI'ed 680's could do it in Battlefield 3. Planetside 2 maybe but nobody knows yet.

[Eyeklops]

I guess my big question here is: How do I push 120 mhz without sacrificing graphics quality? Would I have to start off with 670's SLI'd? I'm sorry guys, the whole monitor debate has just gone a little over my head...

Very few setups can run the most recent AAA titles on the highest settings at the full 120hz. But, like I posted earlier, even 85hz is a noticeable improvement over 60hz. Your mileage will vary, but the the setup I posted can be upgraded to 2 gtx670's in SLI when you get the money.

References:
Tomshardware (http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-670-review,3200-5.html) BF3 Ultra Details, 16AF, 1920x1080, No AA 100 FPS
LegitReviews (http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1925/5/) BF3 Ultra Settings, 1920x1080 72.6 FPS

Well you would need cards capable of 120 FPS minimum on the details setting you desire.

I would NOT sacrifice image quality just to run at 120 FPS, it defeats the purpose. So, basically you would need video cards capable of running at high/ultra high settings at over 120 FPS minimum. Which is no easy task.

I dont even think SLI'ed 680's could do it in Battlefield 3. Planetside 2 maybe but nobody knows yet.

1. GTX 670's in SLI smashes BF3 on ultra settings. They will get well over 100FPS.
2. You do NOT need to get the full 120FPS to see the improvement. 85hz will look much better than 60hz, but getting to 120hz is surreal.

[SwampFox]

Ok, I think I follow now. Does anyone know why this 120mhz is priced so low? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009222&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Monitors+-+LCD+Flat+Panel-_-Acer+America-_-24009222

[Eyeklops]

Ok, I think I follow now. Does anyone know why this 120mhz is priced so low? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009222&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Monitors+-+LCD+Flat+Panel-_-Acer+America-_-24009222

That was one of the first generation 120hz/3D monitors (but well liked for its time). Nvidia has updated to "3D Vision 2" now which changed some things on the monitors, this has reduced the price of the first generation. The BenQ monitor I listed is a second gen version, but does not come with the extra 3D hardware. You can however buy it if you so desire. The BenQ (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014288) with the 3D hardware is $499

[Goku]

I wouldn't get either of those two. I heard the Acer is bad over all in regards to input lag I think and the BenQ is too expensive. The cheaper BenQ isn't bad from what I hear. However when I was looking into these sounded like the ASUS VG236H (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236092) and Planar SA2311W (seems out of production now).

[Bags]

I wouldn't get either of those two. I heard the Acer is bad over all in regards to input lag I think and the BenQ is too expensive. The cheaper BenQ isn't bad from what I hear. However when I was looking into these sounded like the ASUS VG236H (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236092) and Planar SA2311W (seems out of production now).

I have an acer H243H and I have no input lag. Love this monitor. Came with a dead pixel, tho.

[Goku]

I have an acer H243H and I have no input lag. Love this monitor. Came with a dead pixel, tho.

Two totally different monitors :p

[Bags]

Two totally different monitors :p

I thought you meant ACER in general, not ACER's specific type of monitor. :(

[Eyeklops]

I wouldn't get either of those two. I heard the Acer is bad over all in regards to input lag I think and the BenQ is too expensive. The cheaper BenQ isn't bad from what I hear. However when I was looking into these sounded like the ASUS VG236H (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236092) and Planar SA2311W (seems out of production now).

I did provide a link to the cheaper BenQ in my first post. I just linked the more expensive one to show that it comes with the 3D hardware also. I agree, though, I would buy the cheaper one.